After a month in Croatia, it is hard for us to pick a favorite place or experience. We saw Roman ruins, ancient palaces, medieval walls, beautiful islands, and little seaside towns. We sailed on ferries, wandered through narrow streets, sat in waterfront cafés and ate more seafood and pastries than we should have. But when we look back, it won’t be one attraction that we remember. It will be how those things came together and how often Croatia surprised us….
The Islands of Croatia One of the things that makes Croatia’s coastline so fascinating to us is the number of islands scattered across the Adriatic. There are 1,244 islands, islets, rocks, and reefs altogether, including 78 officially classified as islands. With their clear blue water, little harbors, and small villages, it’s easy to imagine spending days exploring them. Each has its own personality, from lively Hvar to historic Korčula and the quieter fishing villages of Vis. Of course, we only…
One of the things we wanted to do while in Croatia was hike some of the parks and trails. Our first hike was in the middle of the city of Split. Marjan Forest Park Marjan Forest Park is a large green peninsula that rises west of Split’s Old Town. Our apartment was close to the park, and when we walked past, it called us to explore. So, of course, we did. Called the “Lungs of Split,” Marjan is covered with…
Our next destination in Croatia was the seaside city of Split. We decided to skip the bus and take a high-speed catamaran from Dubrovnik instead. The trip took about 5½ hours, but it certainly didn’t feel that long. Along the way, we made several stops at islands to pick up and drop off passengers, which gave us a chance to see a little more of Croatia’s beautiful coastline from the water. It turned out to be a great way to…
The walled city of Dubrovnik is one of the most impressive medieval cities in Europe. For centuries, it was the heart of the Republic of Ragusa, a wealthy maritime trading republic that competed with Venice. Massive stone walls, built and strengthened between the 13th and 17th centuries, surround Old Town. The 1.2 mile wall is lined with towers and fortresses overlooking red-tiled rooftops and the Adriatic Sea. The historic city has survived for centuries and was fully restored after damage…
We started our month-long Croatian adventure in the southern city of Dubrovnik, where we’ll spend a week exploring the city. Then, we’ll work our way north toward Split and several islands, where we will hike and bike. But, we remain flexible. We have a general idea of where we’re going, but that’s about as organized as we like to get. Who knows where we might decide to go next? That’s part of the fun. Dubrovnik’s Old Town — the Walled…
During our final week in Oaxaca, we took a cooking class. We were driven to a private home in the town of San Agustín Yatareni where Susan, our cooking instructor, welcomed us as our cooking instructor. We prepared fresh salsa, masa, and refried beans and used them to create traditional Oaxacan dishes, all cooked on a hot comal, the flat griddle that has been the center Mexican kitchens for centuries. A comal is a flat griddle used in Mexico for…
The city of Oaxaca sits in the Valles Centrales (Central Valleys), a region made up of hundreds of towns and villages. Many of these communities are predominantly Zapotec-speaking and are known for a particular craft, food tradition, market, or festival that has been passed down through generations. A lot of these villages are easy day trips from Oaxaca City. One of our goals during our time in Oaxaca was to explore some of these communities and learn about the traditions…
Before arriving in Oaxaca, we knew it was famous for its food, colorful markets, and stunning architecture. What we did not fully appreciate was just how deep its history runs. The state of Oaxaca lies within what archaeologists call Mesoamerica, a large cultural region that stretched across central and southern Mexico and into parts of Central America. Long before Europeans arrived, this region was home to great civilizations such as the Maya, Aztecs, Mixtecs, and Zapotecs. Each had its own…
We are now in our second week in the city of Oaxaca. After spending our first days exploring on foot and taking a walking tour of the historic center, we have finally gotten our bearings and become familiar with our neighborhood. Our apartment is located just a short walk east of the Zócalo, the heart of the city, making it easy to wander into the center whenever we choose. As with other long stays, Oaxaca is beginning to feel less…