After our 14-day walk on the Camino, we spent a couple of extra days in Santiago. But we were anxious to move on. We were tired of the cool, wet, cloudy days and wanted to go to another part of Spain.

Initially we had planned to stay in northwest Spain (Galicia) and explore some of the other cities. But we changed our mind because while walking the Camino, we saw plenty of ancient, gothic towns. And we ate phenomenal Galician seafood. So, it was time to move on.

It was time to head south to Seville. We picked the 4^th largest city in Spain for the weather, sunshine and walkability. We have never been to this part of Spain, and wanted a sunny, warm climate. And it was warm. Too warm. Every day, the temperature was close to 100 degrees. But, because of the low humidity, it was cool in the mornings and cooled off around 7 pm.

We walked in the mornings because it was just too hot during the day. We usually took a Spanish “siesta” in the afternoons. Oh, the siesta. Unless it’s a major chain or a corner store like the Chinese ones that keep the city stocked at all hours, everyone is off from about 2pm to 5pm. We rested during these hours just like everyone else.

THE CITY OF SEVILLE

We rented an apartment in the Triana neighborhood, just across the river from the central historic district. Triana is one of the oldest neighborhoods of the city and is considered to be the birthplace of Flamenco dancing.

An easy mile walk from our apartment bought us to the center of Seville- home to one of the largest cathedrals in the world, a Moorish bell tower and the iconic Alcazar (Palace) de Seville.

SEVILLE CATHEDRAL

Seville’s cathedral is the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and the third largest cathedral behind St Peter’s in Rome and the cathedral in Brazil.

The cathedral occupies the site of the great Aljama mosque, built in the late 12th century by the ruling Moorish dynasty at that time.

It was built over the mosque and construction began in 1401 and continued for over 100 years. The are some remaining parts of the mosque in the cathedral. It has 80 side chapels and at one time in history, there were 500 masses a day.

THE GIRALDA BELL TOWER

The Giralda tower is probably the most ancient building in Seville. It was built between 1184 and 1198 to be the minaret of the mosque. Its design is based on the minaret of the most important mosque of Morocco, located in Marrakech. When the Moors were defeated, the tower became the Giralda Bell Tower as part of the Seville Cathedral.

The tower has 35 ramps that were installed so that one could reach the top on horseback. These ramps are still in place today, and they enable visitors to get to the top without climbing countless stairs. It has 24 bells.

ALCAZAR DE SEVILLE

Seville’s Royal Palace has a long history. The site was initially a Roman settlement. In 712 Seville was conquered by the Arabs, who transformed the building in a palace-fortress. When Fernando III of Castile regained the city in 1248, the Alcázar became the Royal Palace.

We visited each of these important sites-the cathedral, bell tower and palace. All three were beautiful and impressive with Moorish and gothic architecture, vibrant tilework and ornate courtyards. Thousands of tourists pass through these sites every day. Photos just do not do justice to their beauty and Seville is known as one of the prettiest cities in Spain. All three of these sites were registered in 1987 by UNESCO as World Heritage Sites. Late spring in Seville also has a very distinct scent thanks to thousands of blooming orange trees throughout the city

CRUZ DE MAYO

Cruz de Mayo is May 3rd and is a Catholic celebration of the discovery of the cross held by Jesus Christ during his journey to Jerusalem. Processions of religious organizations and marching bands walk through the streets with decorated crosses.

Children and adults walk, some holding candles, others holding crosses or musical instruments. One night we were awoken at 11:45pm to a procession in the street right outside our apartment. It’s always a welcome surprise to come across a celebration bringing residents into the streets. Life in Spain (as in South America) seems to be lived in the streets with people out walking, shopping and chatting all day and into the night. The streets are vibrant and alive. Residents don’t need to worry about cars or walking long distances because there is a café, fruteria, and drugstore on almost every block.

CORPUS CHRISTI

The feast of Corpus Christi has long roots in the city of Seville. It is celebrated sixty days after Easter and represents the body and blood of Christ.

The Corpus Christi procession is important to the city and residents believe that for a few hours, God is present in the streets of Seville. Over 4,000 people participate. The whole town gets involved in the procession, with balconies, store fronts, and streets decorated to impress during the parade. A jury awards prizes for the best decorations.

LIFE IN SEVILLE

We spent 7 days in Seville and really enjoyed the architecture and its beauty. We walked for miles exploring the city and rested as we sipped coffee or had a cold beer at many outdoor cafes.

We had difficulty adapting to the daily schedule of dinner at 9 or 10. The day starts around 8 with people flocking to the neighborhood cafes for their morning shot of espresso, with or without milk, and toast. Some also include a shot of brandy in their coffee for that extra pick-me-up. We enjoyed café con leche and a Spanish potato omelet (tortilla Espanola) many days as a tasty way to start the day.

After 11, the cafes close until almuerzo (lunch), which starts at 1 and winds down at 3:30. Then cafes close again or only serve coffee and a small variety of tapas or snacks. We enjoyed walking along the pedestrian plazas seeing Spaniards of all ages drinking coffee, beer or wine at 7 before dinnertime.

The hard part for us was dinner because restaurants don’t open until 8 or 9. By that time, we were hungry and tired from walking all day. But for Spaniards, dinner and socializing go well into the night.

The atmosphere in the city during festival days was electric and excited, but the crowds were surprisingly calm. Several times, as we walked from one procession to another, we were caught in a stream of people who were doing the same. In spite of our initial anxiety at being in such a densely packed and moving crowd, we witnessed no out-of-control behavior, no unpleasant incidents, no shouting. It was truly a lively, inclusive folk festival that added powerful memories to those of our stay.

We loved Spain and Kathy has added the country to here “I could live here” list. Life seems laidback, the streets are lively, the cities walkable and no car is needed, the food is great and fresh and unprocessed. The markets in each neighborhood provide fresh produce, fish and meat. People are relaxed and were patient with us and our Spanish. People seem to work to live and there is less hustle culture. What’s not to love?

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