Every October 12^th, Guadalajara and the state of Jalisco celebrate the pilgrimage (romería) of the Virgin Mary of Zapopan from the Cathedral to the Basilica of Zapopan. The 5-mile pilgrimage is both a festive and solemn celebration consisting of prayer, music, and dance. The faithful walk along the pilgrimage route praying to the Virgin for everything from good health to a good harvest and this year, over 2 million participated in the pilgrimage including artisans, dancers, and Catholics from all over Mexico.

Religious pilgrimages reflect a deep devotion to the Virgin Mary, and Catholicism in Mexico blends the traditions brought by the Spaniards with indigenous rituals.

What is the Virgen de Zapopan?

La Virgen de Zapopan is the image of Mary, the Mother of God. She is the patroness of the Archdiocese of Guadalajara and considered the protector from lightning and storms. The original statue was brought to Guadalajara in 1530 by the Spaniards from the state of Michoacán (south of Guadalajara, Jalisco).

La Virgen de Zapopan has dark hair and dark skin and is 13 inches high, she was made with corn-cane paste and is believed to have been made by indigenous artisans.

The Ritual

The pilgrimage on October 12^th is the end of the five-month journey beginning in May when the Virgin Mary is carried from the Basilica of Zapopan to temporarily reside in churches throughout Guadalajara for masses and celebrations. In September, the Virgin Mary parade route was in front of our apartment on its way to the Parroquia (Parish Church) de Santa Teresita.

Early in the morning, our neighbors decorated the street with posters, streamers, and flowers and they covered the pavement with greenery. As we waited for the parade, we chatted with our neighbors who explained what was about to happen.

At the scheduled time, the Virgin Mary arrived, accompanied by an entourage of religious leaders and attendants pulling the vehicle that carried the statue. The parade passed by quickly on its way to the church where it remained for a week.

The Pilgrimage

In the early hours of October 12^th, the final day of pilgrimage, people began to line the route in anticipation of the Virgin Mary. Thousands more waited at the Basilica for the mass and celebration that followed the end of the pilgrimage. Others followed along the route, some even “walked” the five miles on their knees. Along with the Virgin Mary, there were thousands of indigenous tribe members, playing music and dancing. The pilgrimage started just after 6 a.m. and the Virgin Mary arrived at her final destination at noon for an outdoor mass, in front of the Basilica.

Dia del Danzante

The pilgrimage is not only a religious festival but also a ceremony aimed at maintaining indigenous traditions, including dancing. During the pilgrimage, the indigenous tribes and dancers lined the route, to participate in the pilgrimage and to help provide protection for the Virgin Mary.

The day after the pilgrimage, Dia del Danzante (Day of the Dancer), was celebrated at the Basilica of Zapopan. It began with a procession of tribes and dancers to another outdoor mass at the Basilica, followed by speeches and awards. After the ceremony, the dancing and celebrating began.

Each group of dancers and drummers wore distinct and beautiful costumes and the groups filled the parks and streets around the Basilica. Over 30, 000 dancers participated in this year’s Day of the Dancer.

We strolled along the street watching one indigenous group after another celebrating and dancing to the beat of the drums. It was a spectacular sight.

There are many festivals and celebrations in Guadalajara which we sometimes learn about from local people, newspapers, the internet, or Facebook. Other times, we stumble upon them as with the Virgin Mary procession in our neighborhood. Every week, while walking to a store or restaurant, we are surprised to see an outdoor market, music, dance or some type of celebration.

The people of Mexico love to celebrate and they have plenty of reasons to do so.